Where to find:
-ingredients for thai, chinese, philipino, japanese:
-spices and products from India, a little supermarket in the Krayot where lives an
Indian community. I hope to have the address very soon
-good cakes French style
Meli melo patisserie, Gabriel Buanish, 054-6652091
Dudu Uttzmegin, Wedgewood street, next to the main post office,
Shemo, Moriah street and Ziv
-Leibel Bakery, Hungarian style, 8-A Arlosoroff Street, Haifa, 04-8674002, see the
-Conditoria chel Gal veAvner, 131 Hanassi in the yard , 04- 8382928 (conditory/
Conditoria Chani, 29 Trumpeldor, Neve Sheanan ,04- 8322066 and Rehov Moria,
next to Mercaz Hacarmel
Conditoria Tata, 54 Moriah, 04-8113308
Nadav’s Desserts, conditory, breakfast, industrial zone Ramat Yishai recommended
by Ronit Vered Haaretz
- Ice cream Italian, Boza, 04-873-8984, at the centre of the village, Tarshiha
recommended by Ronit Vered Haaretz
-Shfaram Ice Cream, Turkish Bazaar, 052-3068906, Acre recommended by Ronit
-flour Taufik Khamisi, freshly ground flour, Kana mill, 052-3113860, 04-6519815.
-All the liquors in the world, Markol Haderekh, Solar gas station, Ramat Yishai
industrial zone, 04-9930689. see the story below
-All the beers, Beit Hamarzeah, Ramat Yishai industrial zone, 04-9930874 see the
Brasserie Pavo , 04- 639-8988, Zichron Yaakov recommended by Ronit Vered Haaretz
-Talpiot market, Hadar, Haifa
Waseem Utman, fruits and veggies, fresh baked goods, fish, Talpiot Market, Haifa
Rahamim Kahalani, Abu Kasis, various herbs, plaza next to the Talpiot Market.
Aran Brender and Assa Bigger, cook at the market, food and art.
Ariel Bakery, baked goods
Ouda family’s fish shop
Hamara Talpiot tavern Shrimp, mussels and seafood Hamara Talpiot restaurant, 28
Sirkin St., Haifa (04) 699-2296
-Kafr Yassif market, Thursdays (recommended by chef Ran Rosh Haaretz)
-Kolot adama Market, organic fruits vegetables, Sa’ar Sela, Route 65 next to Sde
Ilan road recommended by Ronit Vered Haaretz
-Baka al-Gharbiya market, Thursdays recommended by Ronit Vered Haaretz
- Café and spices Mahmudi Korad, Acre market (recommended by chef Ran Rosh
-Café, Badar Khan, Turkish Bazaar, 04-9552622, 054-2822272, Acre recommended
by Ronit Vered Haaretz
-Café, TukTuki, Horev 20 in front of Merkaz Horev, Haifa
- cheese Tzon El a Zippori (recommended by chef Ran Rosh Haaretz)
-cheese Elbrus Dairy, 050-6825975, Kafr Kama recommended by Ronit Vered Haaretz
-cheese, Shirat Ro’im, 23 kinds of sheep and goat cheeses, Inbar, Ma'ayan Harod,
Ein Muda, Kmehin, Nirit, Kfar Kish kibbutz Lotem, 052-254-8052 recommended by
Ronit Vered Haaretz
-French chesses and others (not too spoiled by refrigeration) Stop Market Yagur
-Tfadallu, tastes track in Wadi Nisnas
Please write to us to tell us about the places you recommend
bread, spices, vegetables, cheeses, wines, cakes, etc...
from Haaretz 01/09/2007
3 old-fashioned bakeries
By Ronit Vered
Most of the high-quality bakeries in Israel today are inspired by the tradition of the French patisserie. But at
one time, old-fashioned Eastern European-style bakeries predominated, selling fancy cream cakes, fresh yeast
cakes and tall kugelhopf. In those days there was a small guild of local baking artists, and all the bakers, who
came from Hungary, Austria and Czechoslovakia, knew one another and were close friends. Very few of these
bakeries remain today, but in the few that have survived, mixers and heavy kneading machines built in
Germany in the mid-1950s continue to creak and groan in the back rooms. In the wee hours of the morning,
the Sisyphean work of beating the eggs and baking the yeast cakes begins. Behind the counters are
old-fashioned wooden and stainless steel shelves laden with baked goods that are prepared exactly as they have
been for decades. Here are three veteran bakeries with a tradition rarely seen today, which testify to the power
of taste to trick the memory and bring back the past.
Next to Leibel's bakery, a tailor's sign offers his best merchandise - a real modern marvel - pants and a jacket
for a suit from the same fine gabardine. Nearby, there are salons for underwear and ladies' hats, frequently
visited by the ultra-Orthodox residents of the Hadar neighborhood, with its lovely Arab stone houses. Every
morning, Yehuda Leibel dons his white baker's toque and apron and begins the hard day's work at 6 A.M. The
toque is not just an external symbol, it's an expression of profound seriousness and of a generation that treated
cake-baking, and in fact every trade, as sacred work.
Yehuda Leibel studied the art of baking and the original recipes with one of the founding fathers of the local
Austro-Hungarian baking tradition, in a bakery that died along with the man who founded it. He is also the
scion of a family of bakers: His grandfather arrived in Haifa from Transylvania in 1933 and founded the
Achdut bakery. His father was a member of the bakers' cooperative, and in 1957 he began to work with
Koestler, the legendary Hungarian pastry chef from the Carmel. Afterward he interned for two years in
Switzerland, worked as a pastry chef on the Zim line's "Shalom" passenger ship, and in February 1970
opened this pastry shop in the Hadar neighborhood.
Since then he has continued to bake the same cakes from the old-fashioned recipes of long ago, making sure
to use real fresh yeast and fine Dutch cocoa and to stay away from concentrates and preservatives. He works
alone, creates the pastries carefully by hand and struggles to remove huge trays from the old-fashioned,
burning hot oven. Today they no longer manufacture baking pans this size. In them you will find a wonderful
crunchy dough dotted with the purplish-orange flesh of juicy summer plums or a light golden cheese cake,
whose beautiful slanted diamond pattern no machine could create.
The regular customers who sit at formica tables indoors, or, when the weather is fine, in the small garden,
know how to appreciate this little time machine with tastes that have almost disappeared from the world. They
are also loyal to the wonderful burekas filled with potatoes or cheese; to the Pressburger crescents filled with
nuts; to the cream puffs coated with powdered sugar; and especially to the unparalleled yeast cakes - the
chocolate, cocoa and poppy seed cakes topped with streusel, with a moist but airy dough and a divine taste.
Leibel Bakery, 8-A Arlosoroff Street, Haifa, 04-8674002
Some of my recipes:
-End of summer salad (4 people)
1 pack "Salad baby", a few coarsly chopped mint leaves, 100-150g dry goat cheese cut in cubes, (for
Technion people: 10mmx10mmx10mm, for other no importance), 5-6 figs cut in quarters
Vinaigrette: 1/2 spoon balsam vinegar, 1 spoon sunflower oil
-Boycot salad. We were abroad in 1973-75 and tried to use as much as possible products from Israel and
from the Netherlands who were the only ones who faced the Arab countries boycott
Celery stalks cut in small pieces, avocados, grapefruits, Gouda cheese, some almonds/ nuts /cashew nuts
The best chocolates in town,
and for Aussies even, Love it or hate it:
From Haaretz, 23/11/2007
5 beer joints
The pub with the most barrels , By Ronit Vered
You descend deep into the earth and arrive at a huge, dim temple of beers. This is the only pub in the country
with a separate cooling room for beer barrels, which are maintained at just the right temperature. It is also the
only pub with 28 different kinds of beer on tap and a sufficiently large turnover to serve fresh, high-quality
beer every day. The walls are decorated with oil paintings highlighting English gentlemen, buxom young girls
in German beer gardens, and the dwarf from La Chouffe, a golden, fragrant Belgian ale that is served here
from the barrel alongside German Paulaner, Austrian Gesser, etc., etc.
Most of the drinkers here are young men; it seems that the veteran farmers of the Jezreel Valley insist on
continuing to maintain a somewhat puritan way of life. For the benefit of those who prefer their beer in a
calmer atmosphere, there is the happy hour, a brilliant invention that comes every day from 5 to 10 P.M. and
enables patrons to taste all the beers at ridiculously low prices. The only drawback is that there is no food to
accompany the drink - although peanuts and olives are served in vast quantities. The beers are wonderful and
complex, and simply cry out for food alongside them.
Beit Hamarzeah, Ramat Yishai industrial zone, 04-9930874
Because high-quality alcohol is an obsession of two moshavniks from Beit Hamarzeah, the shop they opened
on the main road looks more like a high-class liquor store than a typical convenience store. They have a
dizzying selection of local and imported wines and a huge refrigerator that also contains some cottage cheese
and yogurt and pudding, but is mainly a paradise of beer bottles. One enters this large refrigerator via two
automatic sliding doors and wanders among the brands on the shelves: the three types of Chimay beer,
Belgian Trappist beers that age wonderfully and improve while lying in a bottle on the shelf; Old Speckled
Hen, an English beer with the smoky, bitter taste of roasted malt; dark lager from New Zealand - and dozens
of types of beer from all over the world.
Markol Haderekh, Solar gas station, Ramat Yishai industrial zone, 04-9930689.
The nearest place to Scotland
In Kfar Sava, of all places, there are quite a number of people who think that they are actually in Glasgow.
Hapoel Kfar Sava fans have developed a liking for another large soccer team, perhaps not with the stature of
the local team, but somewhat more famous: the Scottish team Celtic. It may be that the identical
green-and-white uniforms worn by both teams have confused them. Friends in Kfar Sava have contracted a
spiritual twin cities pact with Glasgow, including perfect Celtic behavior.
In order to be a fan of Hapoel Kfar Sava, one of the Israeli record-holders for entering and leaving the top
league, you need to have quite a bit of self-deprecating humor. You also need quite a few beers in order to
handle the frustration. Celtic fans celebrate victories with pints of foamy beer, whereas fans of Hapoel Kfar
Sava are more often forced to drown their sorrows in drink. They do so at the local pub Foggy Dew, or at
other gas stations.
Benny Krieger has an Irish grandmother and a broad network of social connections with fans of Celtic, and
he is the number one fan. Frequent trips to Scotland also led him to import English and Scotch ales, including
the excellent Belhaven.
Maybe it is something in the air of the city that causes people to enter a world of delusions. Because another
Kfar Sava resident, Edward Landa, does not allow the Mediterranean climate to spoil his hobby from his
homeland in the southern Ural Mountains. He enjoys immersion in a banya, the Russian version of the
Finnish sauna, while cooling his body with cold beer. Anyone who hasn't seen Landa's purification ritual has
never seen real happiness. He enters the wood-paneled banya that he built for himself on the roof of his
house, disappears in the steam that rises from the hot stones, and whips himself devotedly with a broom of
fragrant eucalyptus leaves. After about half an hour - for most people it would be like spending time in the
flames of hell - he emerges red-faced, exhaling steamy vapors and emitting strange cries of pure happiness.
He drinks a few glasses of fresh, cold, dark ale, which is produced in the brewery he built on the roof, and
then he returns to the banya and begins the cycle again.
Krieger joined Landa after tasting some of the experiments of the amateur chemist, who when drunk enjoys
reciting scientific formulas. Once every two weeks they brew the beer together, mainly dark ale. Now they
have begun to distribute their product commercially, although Landa still casts a longing glance at every bottle
that leaves the house and is subtracted from the inventory earmarked for self-consumption. One can taste the
beer at Foggy Dew or at Norman in Tel Aviv.
The roof brewery and Benny Krieger, 050-8871256, bennybeer.co.il; Foggy Dew, Hayotzrim Street, Kfar Sava
industrial zone, 09-7665607
Contrary to what you would expect, this man does not have a huge beer belly. At first we suspected that he
also suffered from a certain lack of enthusiasm, because he adamantly refused to get drunk in our presence.
Only when we saw Shahar Hertz's eyes light up in front of the nitrogen bubbles that rise from the glass and
turn the Irish stout into an enchanting black drink did we understand that this introverted and well-spoken
man does in fact have a great desire for beer. He is a graduate of the academic track for beer preparation at
the University in California, Davis, and his love of beer stems from years of living in the United States, where
in recent years, boutique breweries have been enjoying an unprecedented success.
Hertz is also a great believer in Israel's ability to become a superpower in the field of high-quality boutique
breweries, similar to what has happened in the wine industry, and there is almost no one involved in the field
in Israel who has not come to him for advice and guidance. The company he established together with Yafit
Gal-Levy deals with promoting beer culture in Israel through beer-brewing workshops, tasting boutique beers
from Israel and the world over, and beer festivals, the next of which will take place during the Hanukkah
Beer Master, the company for promoting beer culture, www.beermaster.co.il, 052-4534319; the festival for
Israeli boutique beers at the Hattori Hanzo bar in Herzliya, December 9-10.
You enter Norma Jean. First you drink Apple Bock, a Belgian wheat beer to which apple concentrate is added,
and which has the refreshing lemony taste of classic German wheat beers, together with the tartness of green
apples. It is hard to drink too much of these sweet, fruity Belgian beers, although they are delicious; so
continue with a glass of Edelweiss, an Austrian wheat beer with complex flavors that come from alpine herbs.
With it, you eat dishes in which it is an ingredient: strongly flavored slices of matjes herring or mussels with
bacon. Afterward you continue with the English and Scotch ales, Belhaven or Newcastle, which are somewhat
fruity but also have rich flavors of earth and roasted malt. They are accompanied by homemade Irish sausages
with sauerkraut and kimmel, cooked in beer. The darker, heavier beers, with their caressing, foamy texture -
like Beamish, the least familiar and least bitter Irish stout - will sit well before the grand finale: a bottle of
Sami Klaus, an Austrian dessert beer served with a platter of ripe cheeses.
This unique dark lager, the strongest lager in the world, is produced only one day a year, on December 6, St.
Nicholas Day (our old friend Santa Klaus), and is aged for 10 months. The flavor and the feeling are unlike
any beer you have known: This is a thick beer, rich with the flavors of roasted malt, honey and caramel, that
goes wonderfully with ripe blue cheese, and even with chocolate.
This recommendation for a private beer-tasting trip is only one of dozens of possible variations from the huge
selection in this quiet and pleasant pub, which often is the scene of workshops and other beer events. The
owner's commitment to beer culture also includes the neighborhood bar Norman in Kerem Hatemanim, and a
company that distributes high-quality imported beers.
Norma Jean, 23 Eliphelet Street, Tel Aviv, 03-6837383
Caper flower, growing wild On the Carmel
Platters that flatter from Haaretz June 5 2009
By Daniel Rogov
There is nothing more eye-pleasing and mouth-watering on the holiday - or on any other occasion - than an
aesthetic assortment of cheeses and wine.
There is nothing new about the idea of offering wine and cheese after dinner or even as a light repast.
Cleopatra regularly dispatched slaves to Rome so that they might return with the fine cheeses for which that
city was then famous, and Julius Caesar was particularly fond of the deep yellow cheese flavored with thyme
and parsley that was made by a tribe of people known as the Parisi. The Parisi, who lived on a small island in
the middle of the Seine River, were so fond of cheese themselves that one Roman general observed: "It seems
that all these people live for is the pleasure of their bread, their wine and their cheese."
Whether it started with the Parisi (whose city of residence was later renamed "Lutetia" before it took on its
final name - Paris) or with the Egyptians is difficult to say, but certainly since those days long ago, it has been
equally appropriate to serve cheese as first courses, snacks, following a main course, or even in place of
The French and the Italians feel that cheeses can be most appreciated when served after the main course and
before dessert. To them, the thought of closing even the simplest of meals without one or two cheeses is
abominable; indeed, at many meals it is considered de rigueur to offer a selection of cheeses before the meal
has been completed. This practice has now been adopted in homes and fine restaurants throughout the
There is nothing complex about preparing and serving a cheese course. First of all, whether one or two or as
many as eight cheeses are offered, they should always be served with the highest quality sliced French or
Italian-style bread you can find. Butter should also be served, for although many American, English and
German connoisseurs will tell you that it is an unnecessary accompaniment, most Frenchmen and many
Italians continue to enjoy the age-old habit of spreading a bit of butter on their bread before putting the cheese
on it. Whatever your personal taste, butter should be served on a separate plate so that each of your guests may
decide whether to use it. If the cheeses are offered as a dessert course, they should be accompanied by suitable
fruits such as apples, pears, grapes, cherries, plums or melons. And cheese should be served at a temperature
of about 20 degrees Celsius. Brie, Camembert and other varieties that are best when just a bit runny should be
removed from the refrigerator anywhere from two to four hours before serving.
The best arrangement
At home or in restaurants, it is traditional to offer the cheeses first to the host or hostess. After inspecting them
(do not be shocked when really knowledgeable guests poke the cheese with their fingers to check for ripeness),
the host should plunge a knife into any uncut cheeses on the plate before passing them around to the other
guests. This is done because some guests are too shy to start a previously uncut wheel of cheese.
Creating a well-designed cheese platter is no less of an art form than creating a superb sauce. In addition to
selecting a variety of hard, soft and semi-hard cheeses - some of which will be mild, others will be highly
ripened and more aromatic, and still others may be smoked - it is also necessary to find the right combination
of toast, crackers and breads (crusty French or Italian breads are ideal). Offering only one cheese is fine when
dining en famille, but when serving guests, the ideal number is anywhere from three to eight, two being
perceived as a bit stingy and more than eight seeming ostentatious.
With the availability of truly fine cheeses from local small- and medium-sized dairies, cheese platters can
easily be made up of local varieties made from the milk of cows, sheep and goats. One can also add to the
platter several of the better cheeses imported from abroad. Consider a cheese platter that includes at least
several of the following: Brie, Camembert, Stilton, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, Port du Salut, Bel Paese, Gruyere,
Cheddar, Parmesan, Provolone, Emmental, Cheshire and Edam. Be sure to add at least several soft cheeses
that have been seasoned with pepper and herbs.
As to local varieties, following is a list of several dairies - in the Jerusalem Hills, the Galilee and on the coastal
plain - which produce highly recommended cheeses that are available at cheese shops and delicatessens
around the country:
l Sataf: Tomme, Ramon, Rakefet, Chevre
l Ya'akobs: Gouda (plain or with cumin or caraway), Edam, Schachar, Roquefort, St. Maure
l Barkanit: Bar, Marcelan, Aluma, Tiltan, St. Maure, Gilboa
l Ein Camunim: St. Maure, Tal HaGalil, Brie, aged Cna'anit
l Klil in the Galilee: Any of the hard and soft goat's milk cheeses
l Haniel: Blue Cheese
l Nachshon: Yerushalmit, Omer, Chevre
l Yifat: Brie
Pairing cheese and wine
Many gourmets declare that the finest marriage ever made in heaven was that between cheese and wine,
cheeses making nearly all wines taste better and wine making all cheeses taste richer and more smooth. Just
as there is nothing overly complex about making up a cheese platter, there isn't anything particularly difficult
about matching cheeses and wines. First of all, if any of the red wine that accompanied the main course of the
meal remains, it will always be appropriate for serving with the platter. On the other hand, should you want to
make special food-wine matchings, the following are ideal combinations:
l Full bodied and powerful red wines: Blue cheeses such as French or Danish, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, Stilton
and soft goats' milk cheeses
l Medium- to full-bodied red wines: Brie and Camembert, Gorgonzola, Parmesan, Muenster, Edam, Port
l Light red wines and unoaked white wines: Cream cheeses, young Cheddar, goat's and sheep's milk cheeses
l Full bodied, oaked white wines: Gruyere, Cheddar
l Rose wines: Gouda, herbed cheeses
l Sweet dessert wines: Sweet Gorgonzola, Cheddar, Parmesan
By the way, if your guests should ask, as many will, whether they should cut away and discard the rind of soft
cheeses such as Brie and Camembert, tell them that even though this is their privilege, it is unnecessary: The
rind is no less flavorful than the soft part inside. You might even tell them about the Frenchman who, in 1972,
beat his maid for cutting away and discarding the rind of his prized Brie before bringing it to the table. The
court in Lyons refused to punish him, accepting his plea that his was "a crime of passion."
There is a place Downtown,
Culinary journey by Hila Alpecht
Balkees Abu Rabie and Abbie Rosner,
visits and workshops 052-3728452